Friday, March 31, 2017

Talking to the dead



Day 42: Thursday, March 30

It was a beautiful day, cold and clear, so I was prepared for my journey, which would involve a bit of walking through unknown neighborhoods.

I’d been to Houdini’s grave once before, but it was a completely different route, so this was all going to be new. I walked over the L and took it east. This is where it got confusing. The Machpelah Cemetery, which is Houdini’s resting place is supposed to be in Queens, but the train went (as far as I know) to Brooklyn. Regardless, I got off at the appointed stop and found myself in a neighborhood that was a combination of pre-war residences, car-repair shops, and cemeteries.

It was only about a mile-and-a-1/2, but was constantly changing from block to block, like the planners couldn’t quite decide what kind of businesses or houses they wanted to put next to each other. It wasn’t an unpleasant walk, by any means; the residential neighborhoods were mostly cheerful and well-kept-up; it was just disorienting.

I finally arrived at the Machpelah and, since I knew where I was going and the Weiss/Houdini (Houdini’s real name was Erich Weiss; he’s buried there with his mother, father, grandmother, brothers, and sister) plot is so prominent (right in front), I was soon there. 



 

It was nicer than the last time I was there, but the whole situation is confusing. As far as I can tell, there’s really not a lot of maintenance at the cemetery itself. I believe it’s almost out of money, so it feels run down. The last time I was there, there was an abandoned administration building that was one of the saddest, spookiest-looking structures I’ve ever seen. It was right in front of Houdini, so it really threw a pall on the grave. It was torn down a couple of years ago, though, so it’s a little more pleasant. The Weiss plot is well-maintained, thanks to the people at the Houdini Museum, who have done yeoman’s work in keeping it in good repair, and is actually kind of pleasant. 


I paid my respects, put a stone on the grave (as have many, many others; there was also a key, the remnants of some playing cards, and a couple of liquor bottles, which was odd, since Houdini was a famous teetotaler), then sat and reflected on the idea that I was only a few feet from his earthly remains. I mean, he was right down there! I went up to the monument that frames the plot and noticed that there’s a carving that indicates he was the president of the Society of American Magicians from 1917-1927, but that the “7” in 1927 is painted over a “6.” I sat at one of the two granite benches in the plot and wrote John Cox, who runs a marvelous site called Wild About Houdini, and asked him if he knew what was going on. (He soon answered and told me that the original carving reflected his being elected to a term in 1926-27, but when the monument was renovated, someone changed it to 1926 to reflect his death date.)


While I was sending my email, though, I saw that  I ‘d gotten a message asking me, in short, to keep checking my punctuation and pauses, as they were still apparently not up to snuff. I was a little taken aback by this, not just because I thought I’d been pretty successful at making the changes on Wednesday, but also because I really felt like it was going to affect my performance. Not that what I’m doing is perfect, but I honestly do feel like there are places where Sam has to pause and reflect for a beat, rather than to reply immediately. And I acknowledge that those beats tend to add up and that those mental adjustments can be made quicker than I was playing them, it’s just that I was going to have to re-think a lot of stuff on the fly.

With that in mind, I left the cemetery, walked back to the train, got on the wrong one (heading further into Brooklyn), got off, went back to the apartment to start taking a closer look at my script, and fell asleep. Fortunately, I’d set my alarm, so I wasn’t going to be late getting to the theatre.

Being that the weather was iffy, I took the train, walked to the theatre, and finished going over the script. I felt okay (at least as far as the punctuation was concerned), and got ready to do the show.

It was a smallish house (it turned out to be bigger than I thought it was; I can’t really see them until, literally, the end of the show, when they’re illuminated by the lights on stage), but they reacted well enough. I was in and out, though. The first four scenes were okay, but I was so intent on keeping the pace up and paying attention to the punctuation in Scene 5, though, that I wasn’t really happy with what I was doing. It wasn’t bad (I don’t think; Leah was there and complimented me after), but wasn’t what I wanted to do. I assume it was just getting adjusted to the new normal. I expect Friday’s show, with one under my belt, will go much better.

Afterward, since I felt like I’d had “one of those shows,” I needed a drink; I just didn’t know where to go. I didn’t want to go too far, but the only options I could come up with were either too upscale for the way I was dressed, too expensive, or too crowded.

I remembered, though, a couple of the restaurants I’d passed the night before, and decided to head to one of them. I took the train back to SoHo, and walked down second. My choices were fried chicken (when is fried chicken not a choice?) and barbecue. I settled on the latter, and ended up at Mighty Quinn’s Barbeque.

There are times when I walk into a place and know it’s just the right place. This was one of them. Everything reeked of “these people know what they’re doing.” I went to the meat counter and was torn between regular brisket and burnt ends. I asked the guy which to get. He looked in the container and said “burnt ends.” I said “sold.” I added mac and cheese, cole slaw (“You want mayonnaise cole slaw or vinegar cole slaw?” “Which do you recommend” “Vinegar.” “Done!”), and a beer. Unlike most places, Mighty Quinn’s takes a metal tray, puts a paper liner on it, then slaps the food right on the paper; no plates (although the mac and cheese came in a cup—as did the beer). It’s a little messy, but efficient and works well. 

 "God, that's good!"

The food itself was as good as the pizza; just the perfect combination of smokiness and sweetness, and whatever cheese they use with the mac is unique and really, really tasty. Once again, though, I felt the need for ice cream, and was on my way back to Van Leeuwen’s when I decided to see it there was another place. There was the appropriately-named Davey’s Ice Cream.

Again, I was preceded by tasters, but made it to the counter and got reasonable-sized scoops of vanilla and cookies ‘n’ cream. One thing I like about Davey’s is that they offer a two-scoop option that is basically two half-scoops, making one bigger scoop of mixed flavors. While it was very very good, it wasn’t quite up to Van Leeuwen’s, so if I feel the need for more ice cream tonight, I know where I’ll be going.
 

 Too many choices!

After that, it wasn’t too far to get home, so I settled in (it was still not even 11:00), watched some television, then fell asleep on the world’s hardest bed.  

Pie and ice cream -- but not a la mode!



Day 41: Wednesday, March 29

The weather was much nicer, so I figured my trip out to Queens to visit Houdini was back on. As I was lying in bed looking at my phone, though, I accidentally scrolled too far left and was exposed to my calendar, which showed I was due to see a matinee at Lincoln Center at 2:00.

Under normal circumstances, I’d have walked the 50 or so blocks, but I made the discovery so late that there wasn’t enough time. I showered and shaved (one thing I will welcome about the show being over is that I won’t have to shave every day; Mondays are a real blessing …), then headed to Union Square to catch the train uptown. (Astor Place is actually a better option for catching the train, but I wanted to get as much of a walk in as I could as well as stopping at the comic store.)

I took the train as far as 40th, then realized I had enough time to get out and walk the remaining 25 blocks or so, and got out. Walking through Times Square used to be one of my favorite things in the world, but in the last decade or so, it’s been turned into a pedestrian and shopping mall, full of “characters” who demand to have their pictures taken by tourists before strong-arming them into paying a “gratuity.” Walking through there is just unpleasant now, what with all the crowds, so I (surprisingly to me) try to avoid it when I can. I walked up Broadway, past the ghosts of businesses and buildings come and gone (the old wraparound billboard on 47th and Seventh; Colony Records (which was wildly overpriced, but a mecca); a Chock-Ful of Nuts on 51st and Broadway that was one of the first places I went to when I came to New York (it’s now, of course, a Duane Reade); the Times Square Church (which was the Mark Hellinger Theatre, one of the great Broadway houses that an idiot producer sold); and countless others. I passed the Ed, and people were already in line for the Colbert show, then up to Lincoln Center.

The plaza was more crowded than usual. I’m guessing Samsung was introducing some new (non-combustible) phone, since there was trade dress all over Avery Fisher Hall, camera crews everywhere, and techy-looking folk as far as the eye could see. I fought my way to the Vivian Beaumont Theatre (where I’ve seen some very good things—The Coast of Utopia, South Pacific—and some very bad things—Macbeth), got my ticket, and proceeded to my crow’s nest seat in the last row of the mezzanine. I could have gotten a much better seat, but was damned if I was going to pay twice as much for the privilege. Before the show, there was an oddity. An usher came along and demanded to see the tickets of someone two rows ahead of me. After much consultation, the usher informed the patron that, not only were they in the wrong seat (as were others), but she was in the wrong section. She was supposed to be in the orchestra. How she or the other ushers had missed this, I have no idea, but she sat and sat, as if considering if she really wanted to move (like she had a choice), then left.

The show was Oslo, by J.T Rogers, a three-hour drama about the backroom negotiations behind the 1993 Oslo Accords between Israel and the PLO. I know it sounds like a slog, but it was riveting and made me realize that, as my favorite movie genres are newspaper pictures and capers, one of my favorite play genres is long, detailed examinations of historical events (Frost/Nixon, The Great Society, and the aforementioned Coast of Utopia come immediately to mind), and this was a prime example. I was literally sitting on the edge of my seat to watch. It was absolutely superb and I loved every minute. I felt it was as good a way to end a trip as any I could imagine. (As it turns out, it won’t be, but that’s for the future.)

I have no idea who that guy is

 The view from the nosebleed section. My sherpa is not visible.

After that, it was still a lovely day, so I decided to walk through Central Park to get to the theatre for our show. I hadn’t been to the Park for a few weeks, so it was nice to get out. As I left Lincoln Center, I saw hordes of waiters in Avery Fisher ready to pour gallons and gallons of wine for the people attending the Samsung event, and as I was on a side street on my way to the park, a lone cameraman for WABC, just hanging out in front of an apartment building waiting for … something. (His camera was about 15 feet from him, so whatever was going to be happening wasn’t imminent.)

I called Pidge on the way over, and we chatted until I got to the theatre. I went up and got ready for the show, trying to concentrate on my punctuation and where I could pick up the pace (we’d added about four minutes to the show over the run; mostly through my thoughtful pauses. Acting!)

The crowd was pretty good and lively (the Times bump?), and the show went reasonably well. Afterward, I had to leave to head down to the Times itself and pick up some copies of Tuesday’s Arts section (with our review) that my friend had gathered for me. She was working on an obituary, so didn’t have time to hang out. I was hungry for supper, though, and remembered that, earlier in the week, when Beth had posted solicitations for things to do in her last week in New York, our fight director had suggested Lombardi’s Pizza, between SoHo and Little Italy. Lombardi’s claims to be the first pizzeria in America, and I assume it is. It’s a total tourist trap, but I’d never been there, so I figured it was time to go. If I played my cards right, I could just make it.

It turned out that I did. They close at 11:00, and I walked in about 10:20. I ordered a margherita pizza and a beer, figuring that I could eat half and take the rest home. The pizza arrived really quickly and it was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. Perfect crust, perfect sauce-to-cheese ratio; just the Platonic Ideal of Pizza. I ended up eating the whole thing (I hadn’t really eaten yet that day, so I had the calories to spare—barely). As I left, though, I was still actually a little peckish, especially for ice cream, and remembered a place I’d ridden past on the bus Sunday night: Van Leeuwen’s. I checked Yelp, saw there was another one not too far from the apartment, so I walked up 2nd Avenue, passing many, many good-looking restaurants in the process.

 The perfect pie

I got to Van Leeuwen’s, and was in back of a group of kids who were apparently baffled by both the menu and the process of actually buying ice cream, rather than just trying samples until they were full. They realized I knew what I wanted, though, and kindly let me go to the counter ahead of them. I ordered two scoops: cookies ‘n’ cream and banana cream pie. It was as good as any ice cream I’ve had—maybe even better than Mitchell’s in San Francisco?—and the perfect accompaniment to the pizza. 
 
 The perfect accompaniment
 
My belly more than full, I waddled home to prepare for Thursday and a trip to Queens (or was it Brooklyn?)

Two-show day ...



Day 40: Tuesday, March 28

As it turned out, the weather was dicey, so I decided to postpone my Houdini-pilgrimage to Wednesday, when the weather promised to be better.

The day kind of began early in the morning (around 3:00 am). I was getting ready to go to sleep when I heard a series of blood-curdling screams. Not just jokey screams, either; like horror-movie screams. I hesitated a moment, since I wasn’t sure where they were coming from (it seemed to be further east on 11th, somewhere between Avenue B and C, but (having recently seen a documentary about the Kitty Genovese case) decided I should so what I could. I went over to the window, raised it high enough that I was able to stick my head out, then listened. The screams continued, and I noticed two guys down on the corner stop in their tracks and look back, trying to figure out what the hell was going on. I called 911 and got a very bored dispatcher. I tried to describe the situation and the location as best I could, but really got no response from the other end. (And, in fairness, the whole thing was pretty vague.) The screams stopped while I was on the phone, and I never heard a siren, so I have no idea if they came at all or what had actually happened. It’s not like I could canvas the block to find out …

Because it was crummy out, I mainly stayed in. I’d been alerted that the print version of our review was coming out on Tuesday, so I wanted to be sure to get some extra copies of the paper. I ventured down to 7-11 (their income is going to take a hit once I leave … ), bought four copies, then went across the street to Tompkins Square Bagels, which has suddenly become a hangout for me. I have to admit I love sitting in the window and watching things goes by. There was a small problem in that, I got there so late that school kids were already getting out, and they clogged the sidewalks and storefronts, as they do.

 Ocular proof

When I was here last week, there was a delivery truck across the street, so I was unable to see the mural that had been painted on the grating of the restaurant to which the delivery was being made. Today, though, I saw it in all its splendor: a rainbow-tinged image of Fred Astaire dancing in (I’m pretty sure) You Were Never Lovelier. I’ve often expressed my opinion that seeing Astaire dance is not only one of my favorite things in the world, but is a sure lightener of any mood, so it was a treat to see. That treat was only increased by seeing a group of young (tourist?) women stop and take their photos in front of it. I have no idea if they knew who it was (based on my experiences with my students last semester, I doubt it), but I was gratified to see it.

 Fred!

By late afternoon, the weather had cleared enough for me to walk to the theatre, a trip which was mostly uneventful. I think the most exciting thing was stopping in a bodega to buy an iced tea. Normally, I’d have stopped at Starbucks, but I had no idea if I’d finish it in time for the show, and I had to get home quickly after the show (more on that in a moment … ).
I was curious as to whether the Times review would boost our houses, and it seemed to have done that night. It was almost full, although a number of people were wearing badges around their necks, so I assume it was some kind of a group. The reaction was pretty good (one danger about having a large group from the same organization is that they all tend to react the same; either they’ll all laugh or none of them will), and the show was pretty good, we felt. We did get an email afterward, though, about not getting away from the stuff we’d worked on in rehearsal here, and to try to get back to the punctuation and other acting values we’d established after San Francisco.

Fortunately, I didn’t have anyone come to the show, since I had to rush home and be part of the first reading for my next show, Mother Night (an adaptation of the novel by Kurt Vonnegut). I knew we were planning on doing the reading starting at 10:00 pm (7:00 in San Francisco, of course), but I had been given no indication of how I was going to participate; whether it was going to be Skype, FaceTime, a Google Hangout, or just a phone call. The show came down about 9:00 and I still had no indication, but I did have an email from the stage manager wanting to confirm that I’d be there—and that the new start time was 9:30. Well, since there was no way I could make it back by then, this was going to be a problem. (As it turned out, things got delayed anyway, so there was no trouble.)

I hopped on the subway, stopped off to get some pizza (which I was sure to show off once I was connected visually), and made my way to my bedroom to figure out how I was going to participate. We eventually decided to FaceTime, so I was holding my phone at an awkward angle, trying to hear and be heard. It was not the most optimal of situations, especially given that (as it tends to at our apartment), the wifi went temporarily kaput, and I was disconnected, I eventually got back online, but we decided to do the rest of the reading on the phone, so I plugged in my earbuds and basically listened to a radio play, awkwardly shouting into the mic when it was my line. It was not the best of circumstances, but we all got through it.

Since we finished so late (after 1:00 my time), there wasn’t much to do but go to bed. We talked a little about the review and its uncertain effect on future houses, then I watched Supergirl and turned in.